dmg file to open it and see the package (.pkg) file within.ĭouble-click the. Also u/wburnshctechguys, u/ZenTechiru, and u/panatale1 might be still interested in the photos? If you have any questions, I'd be happy to help.Use these links to download a macOS disk image (.dmg) file.ĭouble-click the. I did not use the original extruder, as it is not very good. For Marlin, there's Octoprint.Īll in all, I just installed a new board and renewed some of the wiring. If I'd do it again today, I'd connect the printer to a RasPi Zero 2W and only use the web interface with Klipper. I also installed a cheap RepRapDiscount Display as a means of controlling the device. You can see that in the top right of the first photo, just so you're not confused, it's not essential to the build. Note, that there's also a filament width sensor installed. Anyways, here's a few photos of the conversion and a bit of the wiring: Sorry it took so long, I switched the workplace and had to ask a former colleague of mine. I’ve gotten replacement insulation cotton for the hot-end because it would keep giving me temperature sag errors when I tried to print in higher temperatures for the PETG and TPU filaments I have. I’ve tried several different kinds of extruder nozzle tips which helps only a little bit. Not really looking for anything more specific than that. Not to mention the fact that their software doesn’t allow for much fine tuning of the slicing settings the way that Cura slicer does.Īnything at all I could physically replace to allow for better printing performance with this printer model. Most importantly the firmware would be the first thing I’d want to change because MakerBot doesn’t do regular updates to their desktop software and their cloud slicing software is abysmal. I wanted to see in general what I could change about the printer to make it perform better. Thanks, I only found one thing online that wasn’t really helpful of someone replacing the hotend with an all metal one.
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